Victorian Clothing

We ladies are slaves to fashion. Always have been, always will be. In the 18th century it was gauzy empire waised gowns. Often, more dairing ladies wet down their chemise to make their clothes cling aluringly. The nineteenth century did away with such nonsense, instuting it's own nonsense, the hoop skirt and the bustle. Clothes became tighter, the materials heavier, with batiste, satin and silk velvet, pique, serge, and silk muslin. Other favorite cloth included moire taffeta, chenille, serge twill, foulard, and a heavy silk lace called guipure. Colors were garish by today's standards, but the bright colors were needed to show up uinder the candle glow and gaslight of the times. Enormous leg-o-mutton sleeves, fitted sleeves, and bell sleeves with filmy overlays of lace and netting caused worry over how to reach for food and drink without dragging sleeves through food or knocking over a glass. In the 1850's and 60's the cage crinoline ruled. A wire or horsehair cage held the dress out to impossible lengths. It was hard to get through doorways, could be embarrasing when outside if the wind caught it and it flew up, and the unwary lady who sat down might find her sight obscured by a flipped up hoop, with her drawers introduced to the world! It finally gave way to the bustle, which required 25 yards of fabric and could weigh up to 30 lbs. Corsets insured that wasp waisted figure so desirable to the ladies of the Victorian era. It was made of whale bone and steel. Actually of whale jawbone, which was strong and springy. J. Daine of Paris advocated night corsets to mold the sleeping figure and assured readers it was a habit that had been aopted at several European courts. Corsets were not the exclusive domain of women. Men too, desiring to cut a more dashing figure, resorted to corsets. In fact men were very much the dandy, with luxurious waxed mustashes, pomaded and dyed hair, sporting jewelry and carying smart, elaborate walking canes. He paraded in derby, frock coat, high stiff collar and silk cravat. By the 1820's breeches were out, and tights were in. No spandex available, regular material was not adequate for the skin tight look, and soft pliable buckskin became acceptable. No pockets for carying the necessary money, men carried purses. By the 1830's the peacocks were beginning to tone down their colors and by the 60's black was the color of choice for men. Proper ladies and gentlemen alike always wore gloves in public, a habit which, for women, continued through the early 1950's.